Quick Summary: Most leaky faucets are caused by a worn-out rubber washer or O-ring that no longer creates a watertight seal. To fix it, you simply need to turn off the water, disassemble the faucet handle, and replace the damaged rubber components with new ones from a standard repair kit.
Why Fix a Leaky Faucet?
That steady drip-drip-drip isn’t just an annoying background noise, it’s a literal drain on your wallet. A single faucet leaking at one drip per second can waste over 3,000 gallons of water a year. That is enough water to take more than 180 showers.
Beyond the water bill, ignoring a leak can lead to permanent damage to your faucet fixtures. Mineral deposits from the constant flow of water can corrode the valve seat, turning a simple washer replacement into a much more expensive faucet replacement. Fixing it now takes less than an hour and costs almost nothing in parts.
What You’ll Need
Also needed:
- Needle-nose pliers
- A small towel or rag
Tip: Before you start, plug the sink drain with a stopper or a rag. There is nothing more frustrating than watching a tiny, essential screw vanish down the pipe halfway through the repair.
Step 1: Turn Off the Water
Locate the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn both the hot and cold water handles clockwise until they are tight. Once closed, turn the faucet on to the full position to drain any remaining water in the lines and relieve pressure.
Step 2: Remove the Faucet Handle
Most handles have a decorative cap (often marked ‘H’ or ‘C’) on top. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry this cap off. Underneath, you will find a screw. Use your screwdriver to remove this screw and pull the handle straight up and off the stem.
Step 3: Remove the Packing Nut
With the handle off, you will see the faucet stem and a hexagonal nut holding it in place. This is the packing nut. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen it by turning counter-clockwise. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; if it’s stuck, a little penetrating oil can help.
Step 4: Extract the Stem and Inspect the Washer
Once the packing nut is removed, you can pull the stem assembly out of the faucet body.
- Look at the bottom of the stem. You will see a small rubber washer held in place by a brass screw.
- If the washer is flattened, grooved, or brittle, it needs to be replaced.
- Remove the screw and the old washer.
Step 5: Replace the Washer and O-Ring
Find a matching washer from your Danco kit. It should fit snugly in the seat on the bottom of the stem.
- Place the new washer in and tighten the brass screw.
- If the leak was coming from the handle itself rather than the spout, replace the O-ring (the thin rubber loop around the middle of the stem) as well.
- Apply a small amount of plumber’s grease to the new O-ring to ensure a smooth seal.
Step 6: Reassemble and Test
Insert the stem back into the faucet body. Tighten the packing nut with your wrench until it is snug (don’t over-tighten). Replace the handle and the screw, then snap the decorative cap back on. Turn the water valves under the sink back on and test the faucet.
When to Call a Pro
If you follow these steps and the faucet still leaks:
- The valve seat (the part inside the faucet body where the washer rests) may be pitted or corroded. While you can sometimes resurface these with a seat dresser tool, it is often easier to call a pro or replace the entire faucet.
- If you have a ceramic disc or cartridge-style faucet, the repair process is different and may require specialized parts.
- If the shut-off valves under the sink are stuck or leaking themselves, call a plumber to handle the valve replacement.
FAQ
Can I use any rubber washer to fix my faucet? No. Washers come in different diameters and thicknesses. Using the wrong size will fail to create a seal and may cause more damage. It is best to use an assortment kit or bring your old washer to the hardware store for an exact match.
Why is my faucet still dripping after I replaced the washer? The most common cause is a damaged valve seat. If the metal where the washer sits is uneven, water will find its way through even a brand-new washer.
Do I need to replace both the hot and cold washers? If one side is leaking, the other side is likely just as old and ready to fail. It is standard practice to replace both while you have the tools out to avoid doing the job twice.